While I was studying International Relations in college, one
of my professors had the opportunity to spend a year in Syria. He came back
brimming with enthusiasm and a new depth of understanding for Middle Eastern
Politics, his passion. As it happened we went through lecture material
for his class at a fast clip the term after his return, so he excitedly put
together an informative slide show of his time in Syria to fill some time and spark class
discussion.
He had a particular sequence of slides where he shared a
dilemma he’d encountered. He showed a dumpster on an Aleppo street. In the
picture, the dumpster appeared relatively empty but it was surrounded by bags
of trash. The professor then showed another slide depicting postings pasted
onto the entryway of a building. He told us the postings informed the public
that the dumpsters were for trash collection and only worked properly if people
put their trash inside the dumpsters. My professor seemed to feel the
government had a very hard job making the people of Syria understand how to use
a dumpster.
I did a very selfish thing that day. I kept my mouth shut.
Inside, I was laughing, though I should have been crying. At the time I didn’t
think of the long range indications my professor’s lack of understanding and
its spread would mean for my people. I was close to graduating and wasn’t about
to rain on a professor’s parade.
Here’s the information my professor, an expert in Middle
Eastern Politics (not an anthropologist or sociologist) was lacking:
In Syria, whenever something momentous happens, a notice
gets pasted up, EVERYWHERE. This is mostly used for death notices, since
Muslims must bury their dead by sun down the day that the death takes place. A death
notice is basically an obituary with a brief history of the deceased, information
about the time and location of the funeral, and who will host the condolences.
Death notices are plastered everywhere they might be seen. I’m not kidding when
I say that if a bus stays still long enough, it will get pasted with a death notice!
I saw it happen, when Damascus had buses (but that's another blog).
The boys – yes, child labor - who were hired to do the
pasting up were not educated and were paid to get the job done quickly. They were probably paid based on how many signs they posted, so our front porch could end up with between four and eight copies of the same notice, all of which might be covered over with new notices the next day, without the first notice being removed, layer after layer. Once,
the government put up signs saying “no posting here” and within the day, the signs
were covered in postings, prompting my father to comment that he doubted the
boys doing the posting could read enough to understand the signs.
Damascenes once had kiosks where death notices were posted,
but the government got rid of them because they were ragged eye sores. No one
ever removed a posting, they just added layer after layer of pasty, papery mess. When that the ratty looking kiosks were gone every other surface had become fair game or not
so fair game: front doors, walls, steps, banisters, trash cans, dumpsters, park
benches, guard rails. Though everyone relied on the death notices, they also
hated the postings being everywhere. The postings were viewed as litter.
Imagine your front door being pasted all over with newspapers, a new layer
almost everyday. Thankfully doors and windows seemed to be exempt, but shutters
were not.
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| A typical front door in my neighborhood. Some are worse. Would you want your front door to look like this? Just to be clear, the notices with pictures are actually a guy running for parliament. Ya, we have a parliament in Syria! |
My father once spent an afternoon using a pressure washer to
get all the postings off of our front porch. He proudly hollered into the house
for us to come see how beautiful the porch was. We’d never seen it without any
postings littering it up before, and we’d lived in that house for six or seven
years by then. We went outside and admired the clean porch with father, then
returned to making dinner. A few minutes later my father entered the kitchen
red faced and grumbling. He’d gone back out to dry off the porch, only to find
a crew already pasting notices on the walls! The porch had been clean for less
than ten minutes. So, when you say, “litter,” postings encrusting the walls of
your building is one of the top five things urban Syrians will think of.
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| A shop in 2010 with the remnants of notices surrounding the entry. This is miraculously clean compared to some buildings. |
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As for dumpsters, Syrians have a heavy duty cultural
imperative against them: charity. For reasons of sanitation trash is put out
after dark but before ten pm. After dark, street sweepers come by. I don’t mean
one of those gigantic machines, I mean men in tattered clothing, with brooms
made from twigs pushing little trash cans and dust pans on a makeshift cart. These
are some of the poorest men in Syrian society. There are probably beggars who
are paid better. Many don’t even have proper shoes. I’m not exaggerating about
this. I’ve seen them with my own eyes. These men, will slit open trash bags as
they go, and scavenge for anything they can use or sell. Even if you leave
useful items to one side of the trash bag (shoes), they will still open the bag
to investigate for themselves. Later in the night, the trash collectors come by
and scoop what is left up into the garbage truck (a real one).
The dumpsters rarely have a lot in them, so they often get
skipped, especially since most of them are damaged and won’t fit on the garbage
truck’s lift anyway. In fact, I seem to recall that the dumpsters and trucks
were purchased from separate companies and some were not even compatible with
one another. So if a home owner was so ungenerous as to skip the road side
charity, placing their trash in a dumpster, their garbage might be left to
stink up the neighborhood for days. Even if that were not the case, the idea of
forcing a street sweeper to dumpster dive was considered repulsive.
So, my professor had been given a euphemistic version of the
situation. In the minds of government officials and foreigners, the populace
were being backward and uncooperative. In the minds of the populace, the
government had replaced one problem with another. They had taken away kiosks
and given the city trash littered walls, they had then not only added smelly
dumpsters, but posted more litter on people’s walls in an effort to persuade
them to use the smelly dumpsters, all while ignoring the basic needs of their
poorest citizens: street sweepers.
As the events in Syria unfold, now, it is tempting for
westerners to believe that the west holds answers that Syrians haven’t thought
of on their own. Please keep in mind that people from the west really don’t
know all about Syria or it’s people. Syrians have to find their own solutions
or they won’t work.
